It’s not just the taste of new olive oil that knocks you over, it’s the smell. My second favorite thing to share with visitors to Tuscany in November and December is a visit to the olive press to see how extra virgin olive oil is produced. When you walk into the frantoio, or olive press, your senses are overwhelmed: the roar of the machinery hard at work macerating and centrifuging fresh olives into liquid gold and the heavy organic greenness of the air assaults you. While just tasting the bright new oil is a delicious experience, a visit to see the process is a chance to delve into a Tuscan tradition.
For a successful visit to the frantoio, you must be prepared. Make friends with the owner and you can be assured of having what you need for a delicious repast, mainly a roaring fire in the fireplace and a large pitcher of excellent new oil. To that you add a large loaf of bread, a bottle of wine and maybe some sausages.
Because we’re in Tuscany there will be a wire grate for grilling bruschetta and sausages, and you’ll need the wine of course to wash it all down. If you’re really prepared you can make pinzimonio, which is basically fresh veggies such as carrots, fennel or celery, dipped into a bowl of the new oil and salt.
You’ll want enough to share with the others, bringing them into the seemingly impromptu celebration at the mill. The best part is meeting the farmers, sharing our wine and toasted bruschetta.
If you’re lucky there will be a chestnut pan, long handled and riddled with holes, for roasting chestnuts, and all of you can happily sit and have a light snack while waiting for the oil!
The owners of the olives, having first procured an appointment, must accompany the olives and wait for their oil. They stand around, chatting, and there is an excitement in the air as the old farmers wait to see how much oil their olives yield this year. As with all farming, a good or bad harvest depends on the weather the trees were subjected to during the previous 10 months.
In all, I’ve enjoyed sharing this particular Tuscan pleasure with all my clients who come to visit in November. People ask me how long they can keep their new oil and I always say “Use it UP! We’ll press more next year!” And if you come see me in Tuscany during November I’ll be more than happy to take you to the olive mill and share my bruschetta and sausage with you!
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