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August 21, 2015 by Gina Stipo 3 Comments

Summer Tomatoes

tomatoes in marketThere is nothing better than a ripe, deep red summer tomato, fresh from your garden or the local farmers market.  They were late to market here in Louisville KY, where I moved from Italy last year, but when they finally arrived they were a joy.

As good as they are, however, they can’t match the sweetness of the little tomatoes grown in the volcanic soil of Sicily and Napoli.  sicilian tomatoAnyone who has visited me for a cooking class in Italy has tasted them; small grape tomatoes bursting with juicy sweetness, when they’re heated through for a simple fresh tomato basil sauce or warmed in the oven to top goat cheese-stuffed zucchini blossoms, they are virtually vegetable candy!

Much is made of San Marzano tomatoes from the Campania region and for good reason.  Grown in the volcanic soil on the slopes and in the valley of Mt Vesuvius, one of Italy’s many active volcanoes, they are meaty and sweet with a particular flavor not found in any other tomato.   Several brands are found on the market  but it’s best to get the ones from Italy that have a DOP stamp, designating them as officially inspected by the consortium of San Marzano DOP and a guarantee of origin and quality.  Gustiamo out of NY has some great product they bring from Italy.san marzano

My grandmother had San Marzano seeds from her hometown in Campania and grew the tomatoes in her garden in the heart of Brooklyn.  I remember the canned filets of tomato she put on her pizza and have been trying to recreate that taste for years.  These tomatoes make a wonderful pizza sauce, the less they’re cooked the better.

heirloom tomatoesThere are a number of different kinds of tomatoes in Italy.  None of them are called “heirloom” because growing them isn’t a lost tradition, it’s a continual way of life that extends back centuries.

There are a host of American Italian tomato sauce recipes that call for sugar, which is an ingredient much less widely used in Italy and never ever found in a tomato sauce.  The origins of sugar in Italian “gravy” (I shudder to use the word) come from the acidic canned tomatoes that the Italian immigrants found when they arrived in the 1900’s.  Sugar in the form of sucrose was needed to replace the natural fructose that the US tomatoes lacked.  That’s not necessary in today’s market when you can get delicious tomatoes right from Italy in any number of good brands.

tomatoes on vineHere are a couple of my favorite recipes using luscious summer tomatoes.  They’re simple and with just a few ingredients.  In fact, they’re identical, one is heated and used as a sauce for pasta and the other is served fresh in a salad, with a good loaf of bread to sop up the juices.

Happy tomato season and Buon Appetito!

Sugo di Pomodoro e Basilico Fresco (fresh tomato and basil)      tomato basil w ravioli
2 cups fresh roma or grape tomatoes
2 cloves garlic
Sea salt
Olive oil
2 tbsp fresh basil, chopped or torn
Gently sauté the garlic in olive oil until soft, add chopped tomatoes and sauté a few minutes, adding salt to taste. Add the chopped basil and toss with cooked pasta, topping with Parmigiano before serving.

Fresh Tomato Salad
3 large ripe tomatoes, cut into chunks
2 garlic cloves, whole
Sea salt
Extra virgin olive oil
2 tbsp fresh basil, chopped or torn

Toss all ingredients together and allow to sit for at least 30 minutes.  Fresh ground black pepper can be added, although a good quality Tuscan olive oil should be peppery enough.  Serve with great bread for sopping up the juices.

 

Filed Under: Campania, seasonal vegetables, Tuscany Tagged With: heirloom tomatoes, san marzano, tomato and basil, tomatoes

September 4, 2011 by Gina Stipo Leave a Comment

San Marzano Tomatoes and Sabato’s Miracolo

Sabato Abagnale is a passionate man. Like so many people I know here in Italy who are passionate about the food and artisan products they make, he is open, full of information and bubbling over with enthusiasm for the products of his region, especially the San Marzano and Piennello tomatoes.

 

 

piennello tomatoes

 

 

I spend a few days with Sabatino and his family every August during tomato canning time and every year I come away with a tranquil sense that if these people and this food exists, all is right with the world.

separating and cutting San Marzano

 

 

 

Concetta, Sabato’s wife, washing the tomatoes

 

 

 

 

He sells his tomatoes under two name brands, “Il Miracolo di San Gennaro” and “Terra, Sapore e Fantasia”; the first you can get through Gustiamo at gustiamo.com, the second is sold at Eataly stores, not only in New York City, but also throughout Italy. (Yes, Eataly existed in Italy before the Batali partnership brought it to NY. It’s owned by Oscar Farenetti.)

Concetta & Michaela, Sabato’s mom

 

 

 

 

 

 

The tomato harvest and canning is an intensive process and takes place during 3-4 weeks in August. At Sabatino’s it’s all done by hand with industrial equipment, on a small scale in what is basically his backyard, with friends, family and neighbors gathering to help get the work done.

Michaele cooks the tomatoes for 15 minutes
then they’re put through the machine…
…which separates the skins & seeds from the pulp & juice

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

the cooked sauce fills jars halfway
perfect, raw tomatoes are added to the jars
lids are put on tight then sterilized
stacked into the cage to lower into the sterilizer
sterilized for an hour at 100 C
gas flame under the sterilizer

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

They’ll work 18 hour days, breaking for lunch and dinner, of course, until all the tomatoes are canned, processed and loaded to age for a month in the storage facility he’s built below the house.

this summer’s bounty
tomato sauce aging

One of the reasons Sabatino’s sauce is so great is the amount of time he allows it to age before releasing it. Look at the layer in the bottom of the jar, it looks like water but it’s actually the life blood of the sauce. That is allowed to concentrate and separate out, and then every jar is turned by hand to allow the lifeblood to be reabsorbed into the tomato puree. This year he estimates they’ll do 33,000 jars of San Marzano DOP, and I am proud to say I helped bring it in!

Filed Under: seasonal & summer fruit Tagged With: canning tomatoes, il miracolo di san gennaro, sabato abagnale, san marzano

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